Thaulle Resort wins Travelers' Choice Award 2019 on TripAdvisor
Tropical break with depth:
In yoga there is this one-legged standing pose, the tree. It is helpful to look for a fixed point in the distance so as not to tip over. My gaze lingers on a few dark patches in the lotus flower field of the tropical lake. When I focus, I recognize water buffalo in it and think: It doesn’t get any hotter. First, this beautiful yoga loft that I’m doing in today has a huge picture window, second, the classes are good, and third, I’ve lost five pounds in inversions. And that’s despite the fact that I eat my fill here three times a day with things that I really like. During the final relaxation, I congratulate myself repeatedly on my decision not to have booked the all-inclusive offer directly on the lively coast of Sri Lanka, but to have Ayurveda in idyllic seclusion. At the crucial moment, my inner mouse spontaneously clicked on deep relaxation – and not on a surf course with a beach club and strawberry daiquiris. And here I am now: on the shore of Lake Yoda in Tissamaharama, a bird and butterfly paradise with a buffalo bathtub. The Thaulle Resort is nicely removed from the hustle and bustle of the tourist hotspots. And the beach is only a few minutes by tuk-tuk.
Then a triple om
On the day of my arrival, the chief physician at the Ayurveda center also advised me to shift down a gear: »Too much thinking and no switch-off button«. He’s right, the lovable mischievous Dr. upul. At the opening meeting, I’m not allowed to tell him what I’m missing, he’d rather find out for himself. He does this by looking at my tongue, my eyes, my skin and diagnosing my pulse. To do this, he holds my wrist for a long time with his eyes closed and tells me exactly what I am suffering from: neck and shoulder pain, respiratory and digestive problems, this and that. I had no idea how eloquent my pulse was! dr Upul tells me it took a few years before he was able to perceive the many background noises in the bloodstream. Surprisingly everything is correct: Excessive screen work and nightly grinding of teeth give me a headache. I’ve known allergic asthma and constipation for as long as Sesame Street. The doctor says I’m a vata-kapha type with stress-related “dosha” imbalances and recommends that I use my time here for a two-week “panchakarma” regimen: an Ayurvedic detox that includes massage and medicinal treatments. Said and done. He gives me a menu tailored to my body to take home. It says which types of fruit, vegetables or fish I should eat more of and that I should reduce sugar, fat, milk, carbohydrates and alcohol as much as possible. And a lot more movement. I know, I know: living as a digital bohemian ruins your figure. Here in Thaulle I don’t have to worry about anything. He’ll let the kitchen know; there the team will specially prepare my meal and prepare my medicine. And releases me into the tropical garden.
Vata-kapha type with stress-related dosha imbalances
I spend the first afternoon at the pool, my head cinema still full of wonderful pictures from my round trip, which took me clockwise around the island: from Colombo to Kandy, into the mountains, down to the south. During the happily rumbling train ride through the Sri Lankan tea plantations and rice fields, I marveled at the greenery, saw the varied landscape and its inhabitants pass by and ate the chili dumplings that a dealer had handed me through the window. Terminus: Ella. This is only about two hours from Thaulle Resort. From here you can do a day tour in the opposite direction through the highlands, which I fully recommend. Also because you can buy the finest Ceylon tea there directly from the producer. And then it’s time for the first massage: In the traditionally painted treatment cabins, my shoulders are vigorously treated with camphor or eucalyptus oil. Then warm towels come on top: a hot-cold revelation that sends pleasant shivers down my spine. How could I have had this constant pain? Why do we even spend our lives in front of a rectangular box? I will change something and let my inner sloth come into its own more often, yes sir! The man with the healing hands probably not only worked on my tension, but also cuddled my chakras. Days later, the four-handed massage gives you goosebumps again. that sends shivers down my spine. How could I have had this constant pain? Why do we even spend our lives in front of a rectangular box? I will change something and let my inner sloth come into its own more often, yes sir! The man with the healing hands probably not only worked on my tension, but also cuddled my chakras. Days later, the four-handed massage gives you goosebumps again. that sends shivers down my spine. How could I have had this constant pain? Why do we even spend our lives in front of a rectangular box? I will change something and let my inner sloth come into its own more often, yes sir! The man with the healing hands probably not only worked on my tension, but also cuddled my chakras. Days later, the four-handed massage gives you goosebumps again. but also immediately cuddled my chakras. Days later, the four-handed massage gives you goosebumps again. but also immediately cuddled my chakras. Days later, the four-handed massage gives you goosebumps again.
Culinary flights of fancy or: In seventh curry heaven
Against my usual rhythm, I’m always in top shape before it’s really light and I’m willing to do morning exercises: in the yoga loft or in the small fitness room. Also, I drink. Lots of warm water. Everywhere I am surrounded by thermos flasks, the contents of which flush me by the liter. There is usually more organic food in the restaurant than I can handle, even though I was put on a light diet. In the morning, lovely boys with pearly white teeth and orange caftans hand me fruit platters with mango, papaya, banana, passion fruit, star fruit or pineapple. At lunchtime and in the evening they serve small bowls with Sinhalese fish and vegetable curries: intensively seasoned and delicious to kneel in. Some variants are chili-hot, some coconut-mild, some peppered with roots or pods, which are new to me. There is also »Red Rice«, a nutty-tasting whole grain variety from the region. A dessert often follows: millet, coconut, honey. Once a week, the doctor and his team organize a cooking course: We have pumpkin and lentil dhal, both easy to imitate, plus nutritional and health tips. With every meal I get a medicine box from Dr. Upul’s medicine chest: naturopathic pills and shot glass-sized magic potions. One even tastes a bit like Averna, others are bitter and not so pleasant to swallow. But eyes shut and through; Shaking and laughing together is wonderful with my Ayurvedic buddies from Zurich, Hamburg and Berlin. The table talks are different than at home. Most of the time we immediately end up with existential things: How often do you have to have to sleep at night, who sleeps how, what was the oil enema like, what happened afterwards.
Streams of tears, herds of elephants and the sound of the jungle
On Saturday I cycle halfway around the lake on my rental bike and dive into the farmer’s market, where I stock up on spices and herbs to take home. A sea of color in fruit and vegetables in the middle of real Asian country life. I ride with one hand, one hand has to be free to wave back. The musty ignorance and aggressiveness on our streets comes to mind. This holiday is unlike any before because pancha cooking is also emotionally intense. Later, alone in the hammock under the coconut palms, with oily hair from the forehead shower, age-old injuries come up and the tears roll down in streams. Is sorrow flushed out with the whole draining and detoxification? At dinner I ask my Ayurvedic colleagues. It’s no different for them. We discuss how blocked we are what unnecessary things we hold on to and what we feel we need to hide. We have a nice conversation with depth, although we know so little about each other. I notice that I’m getting softer and softer here and resolve to consciously let go of pent-up things. What helps against the blues? baby elephants! The early morning jeep ride into the sunrise and through Udawalawe National Park is an exhilarating experience. 700 wild elephants live here – and we see dozens. In addition, deer, wild boar and crocodiles. Mr. Peacock calls Mrs. Peacock, the gang of monkeys giggles, great bird concert, and the baby trumpets: an enchanting tropical sound that will resonate with me for a long time. that I’m getting softer and softer here and resolve to consciously let go of pent-up things. What helps against the blues? baby elephants! The early morning jeep ride into the sunrise and through Udawalawe National Park is an exhilarating experience. 700 wild elephants live here – and we see dozens. In addition, deer, wild boar and crocodiles. Mr. Peacock calls Mrs. Peacock, the gang of monkeys giggles, great bird concert, and the baby trumpets: an enchanting tropical sound that will resonate with me for a long time. that I’m getting softer and softer here and resolve to consciously let go of pent-up things. What helps against the blues? baby elephants! The early morning jeep ride into the sunrise and through Udawalawe National Park is an exhilarating experience. 700 wild elephants live here – and we see dozens. In addition, deer, wild boar and crocodiles. Mr. Peacock calls Mrs. Peacock, the gang of monkeys giggles, great bird concert, and the baby trumpets: an enchanting tropical sound that will resonate with me for a long time
Buddhist flower rush with sea of lights in Kataragama
On the overland trips we stop at traditional potteries, brick kilns, meter high Buddha statues, venerable temples and dagobes. Some of them contain treasures from ancient kingdoms, some sit picturesquely enthroned above the foaming sea. Or above the jungle, like the 2,200-year-old rock temple Sithulpawwa. Once, at dusk, we drive to Kataragama, a pilgrimage site nearby. In this holy place not only devotion is omnipresent, but also tolerance. Not only Buddhists, but also Muslims, Hindus and Christians stream through the alleyway to the Dagobe, which is lined with florists and jewelry sellers. The solemnity with which hundreds here heap their sacrificial flowers on the altars, the believers with fruit bowls on their arms and the sea of lights in the temple: all this touches and inspires me. I also bring Buddha flowers and get a chalk dot drawn on my forehead. I turn my regular walks on deserted Kirinda Beach into exercises in mindfulness. In the salty surf, I take my time breathing and collecting shells. “We’re lucky in Thaulle that we’re a little further back,” says Dr. upul. “Our medicinal plants wouldn’t grow so well directly by the ocean.” He harvests a good 70 percent of his medicine fresh from the chemical-free garden. When he says that, I think: I grew up here too. And the daiquiris? I completely forgot. “We’re lucky in Thaulle that we’re a little further back,” says Dr. upul. “Our medicinal plants wouldn’t grow so well directly by the ocean.” He harvests a good 70 percent of his medicine fresh from the chemical-free garden. When he says that, I think: I grew up here too. And the daiquiris? I completely forgot. “We’re lucky in Thaulle that we’re a little further back,” says Dr. upul. “Our medicinal plants wouldn’t grow so well directly by the ocean.” He harvests a good 70 percent of his medicine fresh from the chemical-free garden. When he says that, I think: I grew up here too. And the daiquiris? I completely forgot.
Report: Lilli Leimer; around 9,600 characters including spaces
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